Making the Forest Princess Gown
This design arose when I needed to create a show-stopping final look for my collection at Fanime Con.
The concept: a mori kei fantasy princess. Perhaps this character has emerged from the forest to vanquish the villains and reclaim her throne. The dress is elegant and grandiose, but also lopsided and plausibly cobbled together by small woodland creatures. These upcycled materials feature fine and delicate needlework that is both chaotic and asymmetrical in its arrangement.
This dress is constructed entirely of repurposed and secondhand materials. I’ve been collecting these materials for years now, from any source I can find. Vintage linens, embroidery samples, recycled trims, and handmade embellishments are given new life in this gown. Instead of adorning tabletops and windows, these fabrics have become something new.
In order to fit into the rest of the collection I’d prepared for Fanime, this look needed to meet certain parameters. Number one: a Lolita silhouette. All of my looks in this show followed this same silhouette, so I wanted the final look to fit in. Secondly, I needed to make it on a tight budget. All the materials were taken from my existing stash, and nothing new was purchased. Thankfully, I have a huge selection of materials available. I found creative ways to source anything I needed, and took opportunities to use beautiful fabrics and trims I’d collected over the years.
My initial sketch was very loose, and mainly helped me determine the overall shape. I couldn’t fill in all the details of the vintage materials (ie lace and embroidery patterns) until I had them somewhat organized into a plan. So this drawing is the plan that guided my draping as I placed the individual pieces of fabric.
The front of the bodice features a lattice of white lace interwoven with handmade flower embellishments. I pulled the lattice lace off of an old blouse, and made or dyed each of the flowers with ribbon and fabric scraps. I leaned into the tattered, frayed look for many of these details. Small vines and leaves are woven through the lattice to ground the flower arrangement and tie them together. I love the idea of these vines gradually overtaking the bodice, like ivy on an old building.
The skirt is comprised of several layers supported by hoops and petticoats. The result is a modular set that can be worn a variety of ways; for instance, the bodice can be worn on its own with an entirely different outfit. Likewise, the skirts could be worn separately from each other, or with another coordinate. The hoop skirt provides a bit of structure to the heaviest part of the skirt, so that the layers don’t flatten each other.
When working with upcycled or vintage materials, it’s inevitable that you’ll find some flaws in the fabric. For this outfit, I creatively hid, cut away, or patched over areas that were stained or damaged. This is one of the most fun parts of creating for me, and I love visible mending! This design has a lot of longevity in that way, because it can be patched over with more lace if it sustains any damage over time. I washed both the raw materials and the finished garment by hand with hypoallergenic no-rinse detergent, so that it would be in the best possible condition in spite of its secondhand origins.
At Fanime’s Elegant Fashion Show, this look was modeled by my friend Meghan (@mahoumeggles). Her confidence on the runway really showcased the hard work I put into this design, and I couldn’t have been more thrilled with her performance. I sent Meghan off on a photoshoot with Five Rings Photography to capture some stunning images of the outfit being worn. They both delivered beautiful work that I’m proud to show off!
Altogether, I think this is one of the best looks I’ve ever designed, including my years of designing fae costumes for myself. I put a lot of love and care into my work, and I am so pleased with how this one turned out. I would love to do more designs in a similar style, but each one would remain completely unique.
I met a lovely girl at Fanime Con who wanted to purchase the gown, so this one is no longer available. I still have plenty of vintage linens left, which I want to turn into simpler garments (like blouses and circle skirts) in the same aesthetic. Keep an eye out on my social media if that interests you!
Here are a few “making of” videos that show some of the construction of this gown.
@atelierheidi My plans went awry but don't worry, I've got this #fashiondesigner #sewing ♬ Spring Sunshine(1238096) - nightbird_bgm
@atelierheidi Forest Princess gown part 2! Finished and walking the runway! model: @mahoumeggles #fanime #eglfashion ♬ Lofi pop that makes you want to listen to it in the spring weather(1515121) - Captain Leaf Ball
And finally, a video overview of all the final details!
@atelierheidi My one-of-a-kind Forest Princess gown 👑🌿
♬ SOARING HIGH - finetune
Modeled by @mahoumeggles
On-location photos by @fiveringsphoto
Studio photos by @bon.komera
Hope you enjoyed getting a closer look at my design and sewing progress! Until next time~
Your forest girl,
Heidi